H260 Trailer Mods, Maintenance and Setup


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The H260 Trailer is a fairly frequent discussion item on the hunterowners.com forum. If you are modifying a trailer to fit the H260, check these dimensions for the stock trailer manufactured by Magic Tilt. The Majic Tilt trailer has surge brakes on one axle. Virtually all boat trailers have surge brakes while electric brakes are common on travel trailers. However, since electricity, salt, and water really don't mix well, electric boat trailer brakes are rare because they require more maintenance.

A properly loaded trailer has about  9 - 12 percent of its weight on the tongue. The stock trailer weighs 1280lbs. The combined H260 trailer &  boat combination weighs almost 5800 pounds with a tongue weight of 600 pounds including water, engine. Adding the usual "stuff" probably adds another 250 pounds or so. Make sure you have a vehicle that is capable of handling this load safely. There is a lot more on this subject at this link.


Maintenance instructions for the trailer are at this link: H260 Trailer Maintenance


Loading the trailer
The Magic Tilt trailer for the H260 is versatile and durable. However, it is sometimes hard to get the boat centered on the trailer.  Many owners have added a keel alignment device so that the boat automatically centers itself. Here's my approach.


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Before: Misaligned keel on bottom bunk

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Alignment device construction pictures

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After: Properly aligned keel


Binding on Trailer hitch extension
It can also be a challenge to pull the tongue extension out. There is an upward pressure on the ball end of the bar forcing the other end of the bar down causing some binding. The lip welded on the cross piece at the aft end of the tongue helps distribute the weight from the forward to the back of the tongue. 

Early on,  I tried to extend the tongue by hand but it was too stiff. I greased the tongue but all that did was attract sand and dirt making it even harder to slide in and out and I ended up with black grease stains all over everything. What a mess! Hunter recommends using the vehicle to extend the tongue. Some people also advise slacking the winch cable before pulling the extension out. 

I have not found a gentle way to do this. I block the trailer wheels and use my car to extend and contract the tongue. This works OK for pulling the bar out, but by using the car to slide it back in place I have distorted the crossbar a couple of inches in the middle where the tongue slams into the crossbar. Most of the summer the boat is on a mooring, but when I dry slip the boat I leave the tongue extended in between sails and I now try to keep the tongue from slamming into the crossbar. 

Inserting the pin
Getting the extension pin in and out can also be a struggle. I use a large heavy duty screwdriver to align the top and bottom holes. One owner reports good results using a large marlin spike to align the hole. Another has ground the stock pin to a point. A hammer is sometimes needed to align the holes and drive the pin home.

This year, I'm going to take the whole thing out of the tube, clean it good, straighten the cross bar, and try to come up with a better technique for pulling the tongue in and out.

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Other Stuff:
The front roller can easily scratch the hull during loading. Here's an idea  for fixing this problem. Some owners have replaced the black roller with the non-marking kind. Also, don't forget to carry a spare tire and hub. Check the winch cable for breaks. Also, check all bunk brackets on the trailer.


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Left: Stock bow roller lasted two seasons & left black marks on bow
Right: This is the replacement roller.
Note the roller guard to prevent scratches to the bow when loading the boat.

broken_trailer_bracket.jpg (22417 bytes) Another owner alerted me to the possible problem of broken trailer bunk brackets. When I checked, one was broken completely. Bought several brackets from http://trailerpartsdepot.com The item code is PT2060,Bunk,Bracket Angle (Mt Ld) $1.04 each. I bought 5 because that was the minimum order quantity.    

IMG_0487-1.jpg (78927 bytes) Check the boat yard. How trailers do not have a spare tire and hub?

The brakes/bearings on my trailer are made by
Unique Functional Products (UFP). Go to the UFP website for
information on maintenance of trailer brakes and bearings

To extend the life of your tires here are some suggestions:

For short term storage: Store in cool, dark place at maximum inflation. Use tire covers to protect the tires from direct sunlight.

For long term storage: Put the trailer on blocks to take the weight off the tires, lower the air pressure and cover tires to protect from direct sunlight. Care should be taken to avoid prolonged tire contact with petroleum based substances: oils, fuels and asphalt. Use thin plywood sections between the tire and the pavement. Note: put jacks and blocks under the axles not the frame.

Age: Trailer tires don't get enough miles on them to show significant wear. Replace trailer tires every five to seven years, whether they look like they're worn or not.

Other: After a blowout on a tandem-axle trailer, you should consider replacing both tires on that side. The remaining tire was likely subjected to excessive loading and, as a consequence, may fail in the near future.

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IMG_4138.JPG (76488 bytes) Nylon winch cable is easier on the hands than wire. 


Click HERE for More Pics and Discussion on the H260 Trailer